“Making It Work” is a sequence about small-business house owners striving to endure laborious occasions.

Hen flu outbreaks that worn out about 15 p.c of the nation’s egg-laying chickens and drove wholesale egg costs to a peak of greater than $8.50 a dozen in February have vexed grocery consumers and prompted massive breakfast chains so as to add surcharges to diners’ checks. However for house owners of small eateries, paying double or triple for an ingredient they crack by the a whole bunch every day might doubtlessly put them out of enterprise.

These enterprise house owners are getting artistic: altering recipes; utilizing liquid or powdered eggs, which haven’t gotten as costly as shortly; and promoting no matter objects they’ll that don’t embrace eggs — issues like falafel or packaged snacks and even contemporary flowers.

Costs have come down in current weeks however stay traditionally excessive, and fear about new outbreaks is holding enterprise house owners on edge. The U.S. Division of Agriculture predicted on Tuesday that egg costs would climb nearly 58 percent this yr. Meals traits like all-day breakfast menus and protein-heavy diets are holding demand — and due to this fact costs — excessive, based on analysts at CoBank, a financial institution that lends to farmers.

Eggs are too perishable to be stockpiled and small companies typically don’t have further money for fridge area to maintain further eggs even for transient durations, mentioned Rob Handfield, a professor and the director of the Provide Chain Useful resource Cooperative at North Carolina State College.

“It’s not like you may replenish on a month’s price of eggs,” he mentioned. “You actually depend on these weekly or each day deliveries of eggs in the event you’re a small enterprise.”

Restaurant and bakery house owners might cost extra for his or her baked items or breakfast sandwiches, however they concern that climbing costs will drive away prospects.

“That’s the massive problem for lots of homeowners proper now,” mentioned Holly Wade, govt director of the NFIB Analysis Heart on the Nationwide Federation of Unbiased Enterprise.

Right here’s how the house owners of 4 small companies try to be artistic in adapting to the leap in egg costs.

For a lot of the 24 years Ted Karounos and his spouse, Ann, have owned the Sq. Diner within the TriBeCa neighborhood of New York Metropolis, egg costs hovered between $30 and $35 for a case of 30 dozen eggs. Through the pandemic, costs spiked as excessive as $100 a case.

At this time, Mr. Karounos can be thrilled with that value. “This yr’s been scary,” he mentioned. “I’ve by no means seen $200 earlier than.” Now, he’s paying $239 per case — a nonnegotiable value, contemplating that he serves about 360 eggs a day on the Sq. Diner, a traditional restaurant with cubicles, a protracted row of counter stools and classic indicators adorning the partitions.

Eggs are the star of the diner’s signature omelets and of the “lumberjack” breakfast platter that features eggs and pancakes, which additionally incorporate eggs within the batter. In whole, Mr. Karounos estimated that about 60 p.c of his menu included eggs.

Mr. Karounos raised costs 7.5 p.c final yr to maintain tempo with inflation, he mentioned, and is contemplating climbing them once more. The margins on one thing as workaday as a two-egg breakfast have shrunk drastically, he mentioned: “You’re speaking a couple of greenback per plate of misplaced revenue.”

“This isn’t an ingredient we will go with out,” he added. “Proper now we’re simply absorbing the hit.”

Oh My Cupcakes!, Sioux Falls, S. D.

At the very least 90 p.c of every part Melissa Johnson sells consists of eggs. That’s not sudden for a bakery, however Ms. Johnson, founder and chief govt of Oh My Cupcakes! in Sioux Falls, S.D., mentioned the worth of eggs led her so as to add different kinds of stock.

“The extra objects we will provide you with that don’t embrace eggs however nonetheless complement our revenue, the higher off we’ll be,” she mentioned. She has added baggage of snack combine and dry pancake batter combine to the cabinets, together with reward objects like candles and contemporary flowers.

Ms. Johnson thought-about including a surcharge to offset among the enhance in egg prices. However she anxious that even a rise as little as 25 cents would dissuade prospects, who’re already spending much less now than they did in earlier years.

“We might simply value ourselves out of the market,” she mentioned. “Cupcakes should not a necessity. We perceive persons are actually needing to make some choices with how they’re spending their hard-earned cash.”

The candy breads, muffins and desserts Mark Burgos sells at his family-owned bakery within the Pico-Union neighborhood of Central Los Angeles have two issues in frequent: conventional Mexican flavors and many eggs.

“Only a few issues don’t have eggs in them,” he mentioned, itemizing buyer favorites like kings cake, a standard vacation candy bread; tres leches cake; and flan. His flan recipe alone, which makes two dozen parts, takes 260 eggs. “You don’t have quite a lot of wiggle room,” he mentioned.

Mr. Burgos has began shopping for fewer eggs and searching down liquid and powdered eggs so he can save complete eggs for recipes the place he can’t make substitutions. “We’ve had to make use of every part we might get our arms on,” he mentioned, including that he discovered liquid eggs in January however had no such luck in February.

Mr. Burgos mentioned he had needed to elevate costs by about 20 p.c, however he mentioned the rise — plus the financial affect of the current wildfires in Los Angeles — had damage enterprise. “Since issues are costly, issues decelerate,” he mentioned. “All people’s having a tough time.”

Facet Piece Kitchen, Tacoma, Wash.

Eggs are ubiquitous on the menu at Facet Piece Kitchen, a restaurant in Tacoma, Wash., that makes a speciality of brunch: The sandwiches are laden with poached or fried eggs in addition to egg-based sauces. Even the latkes — the restaurant’s model of breakfast potatoes — use eggs as a binding ingredient.

However the proprietor, Hailey Hernandez, who opened the restaurant together with her mom and husband in 2022, says her latest menu objects have fewer eggs — or none in any respect. Just lately, the price of eggs prompted her to halve the variety of fried eggs in her signature maple-sausage-and-cheddar biscuit sandwich down to at least one, and to set a each day market value for eggs ordered on the aspect ($6.50 for 2 eggs in mid-March).

Facet Piece’s weekly specials not characteristic eggs, Ms. Hernandez mentioned. “We’re spending extra time actually reworking substances” to raise low cost objects like chickpeas into an appetizing dish, she mentioned. “This week we made falafel from scratch.”